The Last Chinese Chef

The Last Chinese Chef by Nicole Mones

Category: Novel Grade: A

As most of you know, Carolyn and I don't have the same taste in books at all. We tend to like different subject matter and different writing styles. Because of that, of course, even as much as we both read, we seldom recommend books to each other. Most of the time, when I recommend something to her, it's either about 19th century New York or 14th century England. Most of the time, when she recommends something to me, it's got something to do with food. Of the few books I recommend to her, she likes some of them. Of the few books she recommends to me, I almost always like them. As you've probably figured out by now, The Last Chinese Chef is Carolyn's latest crossover recommendation and her record is intact -- it's about food and I really enjoyed it.

OK, it's not really about food. The novel is the story of woman who learns of a paternity suit filed against her dead husband's estate by a Chinese woman. When she learns that the paternity claim is at least possible, she heads to China to try to clear things up. She happens to be a food columnist for a "Gourmet"-like magazine and the magazine gives her the assignment to interview a American/Chinese/Jewish chef who comes from a long line of Imperial chefs in China, including the mid-twentieth century author of a book called The Last Chinese Chef.

Mones, who spent several decades in business in China, has used true Chinese cooking (not American-Chinese which is completely different) as the framework to enclose her story. The chef is competing in a contest that involves the top chefs of China. He is a traditionalist who has studied the cuisine of China. He has come to understand that cooking is about not only about the chef and the food, but also about the gourmet, the ambiance of the meal and, most importantly, about the community that forms around the sharing of food. The concept of eating a meal alone is completely foreign to the Chinese culture.

There's a lot in the book about the various dishes that the chef prepares -- trying to combine the flavors, the textures, the visual qualities, the misdirection - that makes a Chinese banquet something extraordinary. Anybody who knows us well knows that food and shared meals are an important of our lives. This book plays in to that feeling. It makes you want to eat; it makes you want to share a quality meal; it even makes you want to cook!

Chinese cooking is actually the perfect metaphor for this book. The parts are OK - the story is decent; the writing is pretty good; the characterizations are interesting. It's a lot like the ingredients of a good meal - garlic is OK; ginger is pretty good; pork and fish can be interesting. But put everything together in just the right way and, like this book, you end up with something memorable.

Does anybody know an Austin restaurant that cooks authentic Chinese food?